The Pa-O People of Burma
Burma is home to numerous ethnic groups, with 135 distinct groups recognised by the Burmese government – although they are often gathered into 8 “major national ethnic races” on the basis of their geographical location. When visiting the country on holidays, Burma’s ethnic minorities can be some of the most interesting people to encounter. One of these groups is the Pa-O (also known as the Taungthu and Black Karen), who can be found near Inle Lake or in the hills around Kalaw, a former British Hill Station.
The ‘Dragon’ People
The Pa-O are sometimes referred to as the ‘dragon’ people because of the bright red and orange turbans worn by the women. This distinctive part of their outfit is instantly recognisable among the Burmese hills on trekking or walking holidays. Burma itineraries that include the areas where these people are found will provide the opportunity to see the women first-hand. The turban originates from an myth recounted by the Pa-O. Once upon a time, there was a dragon that became the mother of the Pa-O people. She laid three eggs, and the second gave birth to the first Pa-O. In keeping with the legend, the turban worn by the women is therefore styled to represent a dragon’s head.
The Pa-O’s Past
The Pa-O moved to present-day Burma around 1,000 BC. Historical records are sparse, but there is one story from their past that details some consequences of the 11th century AD King Anawratha’s invasion of the Thaton region where they lived. Prior to his rule, the Pa-O were said to wear bright, colourful clothing, but King Anawratha enslaved them, forcing them to wear indigo-dyed clothing to signify their status. People on holidays in Burma may find themselves wondering what the former clothing looked like, but sadly this information is lost.
The Modern Pa-O
The modern Pa-O maintain many aspects of their traditional lifestyle, but things have changed over the past millennium. Many Pa-O wear more Burmese-style clothing these days, and the majority are Buddhists. There is a written version of their language, developed by Christian missionaries. The Pa-O are largely agricultural, especially cultivating thanapet and mustard leaves. Thanapet leaves are used to wrap tobacco and herbs for cheroots, while mustard leaves are the most vital ingredient in pickled mustard leaf salad, a popular dish during religious festivals.
The Pa-O live alongside many other peoples, each with their own ways of life – some very different, some subtly so. For anyone hoping to meet ethnic minorities on their holidays, Burma is one of the best countries to visit.
Jude Limburn Turner is the Marketing Manager for Mountain Kingdoms, an adventure tour company who run holidays, Burma focused and elsewhere. Operating in Asia for over 20 years, they now offer treks and tours worldwide, including destinations in North and South America, Europe, Africa, and Central and South East Asia.
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